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EIRE'Land Calling

PART  ONE 
PART 2 -
HERE

Well this was it, I was really going to southern Ireland to trail-ride on the ancient roads of Eire after all.


WR250F and XR200 twin-shock overlook a Kerry bay far below.

Surprisingly the decision to go wasn't an easy one! My travelling companions Ricky and Ollie - who had been fellow trailriders and enduro racers for over 18 years, had been trying to get me to go with them for over eleven years. Yet despite the tails of wonder, there had always been some excuse why I couldn't go.

This year their annual pilgrimage to the holy mountain trails had actually been planned for 10 days earlier - when I was to be on holiday with my wife. But unbeknown to me they had delayed the trail riding adventure - so that I had no excuse. But what they didn't know was that I had already planned a change in my career. I had auditioned for a massive play to be held at the Northcott Theatre Exeter in November, had got the part and was meant to be having rehearsals all that week.


Even the road-work was great fun.

So after phoning the theatre production office to apologise and ask them to let the world know that I would not be entertaining on stage after all. It was a case of say good bye to the wife, chuck a bike in the van with a bit of kit and off we three set for the week!

The plan was drive to Swansea and catch the overnight ferry to Cork. All went well till we got to the dockside. Well if we had been known IRA terrorists entering England, we might have expected it. Why we were treated like that by British customs - when we were trying to leave the country - I just don't know. It was a case of - "right all three of you out, what's in the back, - lets see then. What's in these bags - riding kit? Let's see then. Is this passport photo really you, ...." etc, etc.

Finally to our great relief we were allowed on the ship. Had a great meal courtesy of Ollie to celebrate our forthcoming adventure and headed to the cabin for a good night's kip.

Early next morning we awoke in time for a quick coffee before we disembarked and headed west for a breakfast stop on the road. Here I learned lesson number one, - you don't ask for a full English breakfast when your dining abroad! So after eating our superb full Irish breakfast's in a very friendly B&B stop we set off westward once more.

The pub colours in Eire can be very bold indeed. Shown here was one of our lunch stop haunts.

As we hit the countryside I was introduced to lesson number two, - always drive in the 'fast lane'. In Ireland drivers only move into the slow or left-hand lane, to let others overtake. I must say this took a bit of getting used to at first, - until I saw why!!!

In south-western Eire it is very common for the inside lane to actually 'vanish' here and there, at the most unexpected places. Or it may suddenly be only 'half width', or have giant holes appear. So that’s why the Irish don't risk staying in it!!!

An hour or two later the hedgerows started turning a glorious reddish colour, unlike any I had seen in the England. "Aha" shouted Ollie, excited at the site. "The Fuchsia hedge- banks mean were nearly there".

Mike on his red XR200 4-valver, Ricky with red helmet and Ollie pose beside a typical red Fucha hedgerow.

We briefly stopped at Bantry as we travelled up the western coast to admire the tranquil view. Little did I realise that I would be seeing many such glorious views and some far better during the forthcoming days.


The quiet little harbour near Bantry seemed so restful. 

Suddenly as we reached a mountain range Ricky braked the van to an abrupt halt. He shouted excitedly and with an almost evil grin, "Right lads, unload the bikes and we'll meet at the top of that mountain." As he pointed to a pile of rocks high up in the distance - and I thought he was kidding! But fifteen minutes later we were all trying conquer the almost impossible trail up across the wild moorland range.

Now as many of these trails are rarely used, they tend to grow over, become very boggy, or get temporarily bypassed for ease of passage. As the years have gone on this has compounded the difficulty of finding the original, best, or in some cases any usable trail. But it really adds to the fun!


Ollie gives it a bit of throttle to cross this small bog.

As you can imagine, there is always going to be a little rivalry to see who is going to get to the summit or meeting point first! This proved to be hilarious, as even using all our skills, reaching the top was not going to be a certainty the way we were all riding, - but believe me we all wanted to!

After looping the bike out a few times, then high siding it, I finally reached a plateau from where I could enjoy riding the rest of the trail all the way to the top - to meet the others. Ollie and Rick were off their bikes and resting by the time I got there. They had had a good view of my antics and looked thoroughly smug! But then, I didn't get stuck in a big bog on the way back down - unlike some!!!


My first mountaintop view, - what crazy would run a road here?

This was my first introduction to a whole new type of trail riding - and the views and tranquility of the experience was truly awesome. As you can see from the panoramic photo accompanying this text, it was a serenely beautiful place. We just chilled for a long while sitting on some rocks and took in the atmosphere, relaxed and let it sink in, - we were really on holiday and this is all we had to do for five more days, trail ride, eat, drink and relax - wow!

Are the mountains really that high? Aircraft engines tend to be liberally dotted around often with grim notices pinned nearby, as grotesque monuments. How sad to think that the first piece of land that many early Atlantic flyers from the USA encountered, was an impossibly high mountain covered in fog!

This bent and rusty BMW engine had a very sad tale to tell.

After a challenging descent down the mountain we loaded up the van and headed for our first nights digs in Kenmare.

Another 'spot-on' breakfast next morning and we were unloading our bikes for a couple of nearby trails that promised more mind boggling scenery and exciting riding. The three of us drifted quietly out of the town to the north and after a while reached the start of an ancient road, which wound its way up through the mountains where we met some very keen early morning walkers. I couldn't believe that people were actually able to walk on this type of terrain, because it was so difficult to even ride on most of it and the track was sooo long!


Early morning ramblers and bikers enjoying the views together.

We exchanged more than a few pleasantries together while enjoying the fantastic mountain top views. Then we remounted the bikes, said our goodbyes and continued on our way down toward some beauty spot, apparently favoured by an English Queen a few centuries back!

And it certainly seemed a good spot to dismount once more, chill out and take elevenses, while admiring the scenic view - and a few tasty holidaymakers to boot!


An English queens favourite view. We liked it too!

As we reversed our mornings ride to return to base, my mind wandered with enjoyment. I had been dreading taking the XLR200 Honda as I thought it would be totally outclassed (My TTR250 was still in dry dock). Ricky was on his new WR250F and Ollie was riding 'The Goat' - an old twin shock XR200, but Ollie was - and still is when needed, an exceptionally good rider. However for the type of riding we were enjoying, my little XLR was proving to be ideal after all. But this was only the beginning!

We quickly packed up the van once more and set off north on the long scenic coastal drive towards Tralee. Getting to our next base early evening, we settled into our digs and enjoyed the company of our hosts over a brew, before we set off for an evening meal in a nearby village pub. To my shock - it was true, lesson number three, Guinness does taste totally different in Ireland, I actually enjoyed it!!!


Rick cleaning his WR250 in an 'Irish Bike Wash'.

It was a lazy start next day, fortunately we had booked the breakfast late. This allowed me to quickly inspect the XLR's rear brake assembly to find out why the old girl had started to 'grab' and 'stick-on' when I didn't want it to. A strip down and clean up revealed nothing, but it worked perfectly afterwards - so who cares what the problem was!!!

At least I could now relax and eat my breakfast in peace, with no need to worry about the forthcoming days riding, - but then, I had no idea where they were taking me!!!

Continued ........ HERE

EIRE'Land Calling

PART  ONE 
PART 2 - HERE

Article - Adrian Harris (Biker)  Photos - Adrian Harris & Richard Lennard.

Articles Copyright ©  Adrian Harris 2003. Not to be reproduced without prior permission.

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