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EIRE 'Land
Calling |
PART
ONE
PART 2 - HERE |
Well this was it, I was really going to southern Ireland to
trail-ride on the ancient roads of Eire after all.

WR250F
and XR200 twin-shock overlook a Kerry bay far below.
Surprisingly the decision to go wasn't an easy one! My travelling
companions Ricky and Ollie - who had been fellow trailriders and enduro
racers for over 18 years, had been trying to get me to go with them for
over eleven years. Yet despite the tails of wonder, there had always
been some excuse why I couldn't go.
This year their annual pilgrimage to the holy mountain trails had
actually been planned for 10 days earlier - when I was to be on holiday
with my wife. But unbeknown to me they had delayed the trail riding
adventure - so that I had no excuse. But what they didn't know was that
I had already planned a change in my career. I had auditioned for a
massive play to be held at the Northcott Theatre Exeter in November, had
got the part and was meant to be having rehearsals all that week.

Even the
road-work was great fun.
So after phoning the theatre production office to apologise and ask
them to let the world know that I would not be entertaining on stage
after all. It was a case of say good bye to the wife, chuck a bike in
the van with a bit of kit and off we three set for the week!
The plan was drive to Swansea and catch the overnight ferry to Cork.
All went well till we got to the dockside. Well if we had been known IRA
terrorists entering England, we might have expected it. Why we were treated
like that by British customs - when we were trying to leave the country
- I just don't know. It was a case of - "right all three of you
out, what's in the back, - lets see then. What's in these bags - riding
kit? Let's see then. Is this passport photo really you, ...." etc,
etc.
Finally to our great relief we were allowed on the ship. Had a great
meal courtesy of Ollie to celebrate our forthcoming adventure and headed
to the cabin for a good night's kip.
Early next morning we awoke in time for a quick coffee before we
disembarked and headed west for a
breakfast stop on the road. Here I learned lesson number one, - you
don't ask for a full English breakfast when your dining abroad! So after
eating our superb full Irish breakfast's in a very friendly B&B stop
we set off westward once more.
The pub
colours in Eire can be very bold indeed. Shown here was one of our lunch
stop haunts.
As we hit the countryside I was introduced to lesson number two, -
always drive in the 'fast lane'. In Ireland drivers only move into the
slow or left-hand lane, to let others overtake. I must say this took a
bit of getting used to at first, - until I saw why!!!
In south-western Eire it is very common for the inside lane to
actually 'vanish' here and there, at the most unexpected places. Or it
may suddenly be only 'half width', or have giant holes appear. So
that’s why the Irish don't risk staying in it!!!
An hour or two later the hedgerows started turning a glorious reddish
colour, unlike any I had seen in the England. "Aha" shouted
Ollie, excited at the site. "The Fuchsia hedge- banks mean were nearly
there".
Mike on his
red XR200 4-valver, Ricky with red helmet and Ollie pose beside a
typical red Fucha hedgerow.
We briefly stopped at Bantry as we travelled up the western coast to
admire the tranquil view. Little did I realise that I would be seeing
many such glorious views and some far better during the forthcoming
days.

The
quiet little harbour near Bantry seemed so restful.
Suddenly as we reached a mountain range Ricky braked the van to an
abrupt halt. He shouted excitedly and with an almost evil grin,
"Right lads, unload the bikes and we'll meet at the top of that
mountain." As he pointed to a pile of rocks high up in the distance
- and I thought he was kidding! But fifteen minutes later we were all
trying conquer the almost impossible trail up across the wild moorland
range.
Now as many of these trails are rarely used, they tend to grow over,
become very boggy, or get temporarily bypassed for ease of passage. As
the years have gone on this has compounded the difficulty of finding the
original, best, or in some cases any usable trail. But it really adds to
the fun!

Ollie
gives it a bit of throttle to cross this small bog.
As you can imagine, there is always going to be a little rivalry to
see who is going to get to the summit or meeting point first! This
proved to be hilarious, as even using all our skills, reaching the top
was not going to be a certainty the way we were all riding, - but
believe me we all wanted to!
After looping the bike out a few times, then high siding it, I
finally reached a plateau from where I could enjoy riding the rest of
the trail all the way to the top - to meet the others. Ollie and Rick
were off their bikes and resting by the time I got there. They had had a
good view of my antics and looked thoroughly smug! But then, I didn't
get stuck in a big bog on the way back down - unlike some!!!

My first
mountaintop view, - what crazy would run a road here?
This was my first introduction to a whole new type of trail riding -
and the views and tranquility of the experience was truly awesome. As
you can see from the panoramic photo accompanying this text, it was a
serenely beautiful place. We just chilled for a long while sitting on
some rocks and took in the atmosphere, relaxed and let it sink in, - we
were really on holiday and this is all we had to do for five more days,
trail ride, eat, drink and relax - wow!
Are
the mountains really that high? Aircraft engines tend to be liberally
dotted around often with grim notices pinned nearby, as grotesque
monuments. How sad to think that the first piece of land that many early
Atlantic flyers from the USA encountered, was an impossibly high
mountain covered in fog!
This bent
and rusty BMW engine had a very sad tale to tell.
After a challenging descent down the mountain we loaded up the van
and headed for our first nights digs in Kenmare.
Another 'spot-on' breakfast next morning and we were unloading our
bikes for a couple of nearby trails that promised more mind boggling
scenery and exciting riding. The three of us drifted quietly out of the
town to the north and after a while reached the start of an ancient
road, which wound its way up through the mountains where we met some
very keen early morning walkers. I couldn't believe that people were
actually able to walk on this type of terrain, because it was so
difficult to even ride on most of it and the track was sooo long!

Early
morning ramblers and bikers enjoying the views together.
We exchanged more than a few pleasantries together while enjoying the
fantastic mountain top views. Then we remounted the bikes, said our
goodbyes and continued on our way down toward some beauty spot,
apparently favoured by an English Queen a few centuries back!
And it certainly seemed a good spot to dismount once more, chill out
and take elevenses, while admiring the scenic view - and a few tasty
holidaymakers to boot!

An
English queens favourite view. We liked it too!
As we reversed our mornings ride to return to base, my mind wandered
with enjoyment. I had been dreading taking the XLR200 Honda as I thought
it would be totally outclassed (My TTR250 was still in dry dock). Ricky
was on his new WR250F and Ollie was riding 'The Goat' - an old twin
shock XR200, but Ollie was - and still is when needed, an exceptionally
good rider. However for the type of riding we were enjoying, my little
XLR was proving to be ideal after all. But this was only the beginning!
We quickly packed up the van once more and set off north on the long
scenic coastal drive towards Tralee. Getting to our next base early evening, we
settled into our digs and enjoyed the company of our hosts over a brew,
before we set off for an evening meal in a nearby village pub. To my
shock - it was true, lesson number three, Guinness does taste totally
different in Ireland, I actually enjoyed it!!!

Rick
cleaning his WR250 in an 'Irish Bike Wash'.
It was a lazy start next day, fortunately we had booked the breakfast
late. This allowed me to quickly inspect the XLR's rear brake assembly
to find out why the old girl had started to 'grab' and 'stick-on' when I
didn't want it to. A strip down and clean up revealed nothing, but it
worked perfectly afterwards - so who cares what the problem was!!!
At least I could now relax and eat my breakfast in peace, with no
need to worry about the forthcoming days riding, - but then, I had no
idea where they were taking me!!!
Continued ........ HERE
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EIRE 'Land
Calling |
PART
ONE
PART 2 - HERE
|
Article - Adrian Harris (Biker) Photos - Adrian Harris & Richard Lennard.
Articles
Copyright © Adrian Harris 2003. Not to be
reproduced without prior permission.
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